Monday was set aside to travel to Chilsford Farm to collect some of the outstanding items from the kit. So today I could get on with a lot of jobs that had stalled because of the shortages.
On Friday I sealed the canopy perspex with silicone and left it to set. The waste material was removed with a plastic scraper.
And cleaned off with some methylated spirits.
The result is good but not perfect in a couple of places so will need some attention once the canopy is mounted.
Next up is to connect the NACA ducts to the various intakes on the carburettor and cabin heater.
The SCAT ducting for the air intake is secured with a jubilee clip onto the air intake.
The ducting is cut to size and attached to the rear of the righthand NACA inlet on the lower canopy.
The heat exchanger is positioned and secured in place with large jubilee clips.
A short piece of ducting is installed between the heat heat exchanger and the heater intake that runs through the firewall to provide cabin heat and a de-mist facility.
A long pice of ducting is connected to the heater control and will eventually connect to the glare shield that includes the de-mist vents.
The lefthand side ducting runs from the NACA inlet to the middle heat exchanger connection but it’s quite tight so it must be routed so it doesn’t come into contact with the exhaust system.
View from the righthand side.
A spring is cut and installed to ensure that the air intake is supplied from the cold air vent by default.
One of the items I picked up on Monday was the pitot mount. I’ve already taken delivery of the avionics so I can mount the pitot onto the mount.
Instead of drilling holes and using screws I’ve decided to secure the probe into position with silicone which will provide a neat solution.
Once filled with silicone it’s left to set overnight.
The carburettor air box has two ‘horns’ that the SCAT hose connects to. They require sealing with heat resistant silicone and secured with three rivets.
The finished air box which will be left to set overnight.
The cabin air vents are supplied with fresh air from NACA ducts in the side of the fuselage. They require installing in the instrument panel and then connecting up with some scat hose. So a temporary fit of the panel is required to get the hose length.
Two brackets are clecoed into position and the panel is secure by two screws each side.
With the panel installed it give me an idea of the space I have for the avionics and possible positioning. Tomorrow I will fit the air vents and hose.
One job left over from installing the fuel system is to fit the fuel pressure sensor. The sensor cannot be connected directly to the hose. A 1/8″ NPT female to 6mm barb adapter is required.
As it will come into contact with fuel Loctite 577 is used to seal the thread before fitting.
The pressure sensor and adapter before being screwed together. They will be left overnight to set.
The final job for today was to trim the cowl to ensure is doesn’t come into contact withe the water radiator.
Today I completed the installation of the right wing landing lights and strobe light and as it was quite warm today I decided to seal the canopy plexiglass with the silicone sealer.
The landing lights covers have to be a flush fit so countersunk M4 rivnuts are used to facilitate this.
When installing the rivnut it’s important to ensure that it’s not installed at an angle.
The starboard landing light and cover complete.
As it’s been a warm day I thought it would be a good time to seal the plexiglass. It has already had a first fit at the factory but needs sealing with silicone before it can be used in service.
The channel is filled in a similar way to sealing around a bath!
Once the channel is filled it needs to be smoothed. It’s suggested that the back of a spoon is used. If pressed hard enough it will leave two lines either side of the filled channel. This allows the waste material to be removed when it’s set in a couple of days.
The finished canopy. The waste material will be removed on Monday or Tuesday.
Next is to fit the starboard strobe. The cable need to be soldered and as with the port wing the wire colours are different so a record needs to be kept for the wiring records.
There is a flat section for the strobe but no definite location is marked so the strobe needs to be positioned to what looks ‘right’.
The holes are drilled and M3 countersunk rivnuts that I purchased this morning from DJ Invicta Supplies are installed and the light is secured with M3 stainless steel button head screws.
The starboard lights complete I’ll leave the wing on the stand ready to install the Pitot on Monday once I get the pitot mount from Farry.
Today was spent mainly wiring up the aileron trim motor, installing the port strobe before starting on the starboard wing landing light.
One little job to do today was to install an overflow pipe from the water expansion tank to the water bottle mounted on the firewall.
The aileron trim motor is connected to the wire installed in the wing. The ends are stripped and tinned.
Heat shrink tube is slid onto the wires before the soldering is done to make sure that they are well insulated.
The colours don’t match between the trim motor and the wing wire so that will have to be documented in the aircraft wiring diagram.
A heat gun is used to shrink the tube over the wires and then a bigger piece (yellow tubing in picture) is slid over all the connections.
The wire is kept in place to stop it moving in operation with a spot of glue.
The strobes are next . Very important to mount the correct one on the correct side. Red is being installed on the left wing.
The same method is used to solder and secure the wire joints.
The strobe position is not marked so it’s important to get the right angle. I haven’t got any M3 rivnuts so will have to get some and do this tomorrow.
So the right wing is put on stands and I can now start on the landing lights and strobes for this wing. The pitot/AOA probe is installed on this wing but I don’t have the mount as it’s with Farry. So a 5 hour trip is required on Monday to get that and the most of the rest of the outstanding items.
The spade connectors are crimped and inserted into the connector block.
The landing light is installed. It’s upside down as the wing is upside down!
The installed landing light ready for the cover which I’ll do tomorrow now as I’ve run out of time.
Finishing off the panel modification today and the start of the landing lights.
There were a couple of areas where I needed to use filler and then sand with fine wet & dry.
Primer is applied and is ready for painting.
Ian was back today after a few days away and gave me a hand to get a wing up on the stands so I can install the landing lights, wire the trim motor and fit the strobes.
The LED units are installed in both wings.
The wires are shortened and connectors are crimped and inserted into the connector block.
The unit is secured into place with M4 screws and then checked to ensure they work!
The light cover is secured into position with tape…
and six holes for the M4 countersunk rivnuts are drilled…
and countersunk. The rivnuts are then installed…
and the light cover is fitted and secured into place with countersunk stainless steel screws.
When the aircraft was painted the cowls fasteners were fitted however they weren’t fitted very well. I decided to remove all of them and start again. Having spoken to Ian Daniels my LAA inspector he agreed and said that he would refit them with solid rivets.
First thing was to use a parallel drift to punch out the hardened pin from the rivet.
Then the head needs to be removed with a large drill bit. Need to be very careful here as there is a chance that the hole could be enlarged which would cause problems when re riveting.
The fitting is removed and the old rivets are punched out.
Ian doesn’t lend his rivet squeezer out so did the job for me – saved me a job.
The result is much better, they are completely flush now and won’t rub on the underside of the cowling.
Ian in action squeezing one of many solid rivets.
The cowl is secured by quick twist screws which are held in position by spring washers. These are installed in the top cowl.
A little fiddly to install when you first start out but they are quite easy to install with the help of a small screwdriver.
The top cowl with the quick twist screws in place including the ones for the oil inspection cover.
The bottom cowl quick release fasteners are fitted, the ill fitting fasteners will be removed, re countersunk and the fitting secure with solid rivets as described before.
One final job was to replace the exhaust system spring wire locking I had applied as I wasn’t quite happy with the way I had done it. The wire should prevent debris being dropped from the plane and create FOD should the spring fail in service.
Now I’ve received the water thermostat I can finish the water system, install the EGT sensors and complete the exhaust system.
Thermostat, hoses & clips for install.
The thermostat is fitted behind the expansion tank.
The hoses are attached…
and the radiator bottom support bracket is installed…
Once the radiator is fully installed I can check the cowls fit properly.
As you can see there is some trimming that needs to be carried out to make sure the cowl doesn’t foul the radiator.
Looks ok from the front.
The exhaust seems to clear the cowl however another check will be made before final assembly. The gascolator is located on the opposite side to the exhaust pipe and requires a hole to be drilled which will enable fuel checks to be carried out before flight.
The installed thermostat with just a ‘stand off’ to be fitted to make sure it doesn’t rub against the adjacent engine mount.
Now the cowl fitting has proven All the clips are fitted – job done.
I purchased a Kavlico EMS kit so the EGT sensors need to be installed.
A 3.2mm hole needs to be drilled in the rear exhaust downpipes 4″ from the flange.
Once the hole is drilled and sensor fitted it is held in place with the supplied, modified jubilee clip. The sensor has a ‘collar’ that ensures that the hole is sealed.
The downpipes are re-fitted and re-wrapped, securing in place with stainless steel ties.
To ensure the springs don’t fall and cause a runway hazard if they fail in service they are wire locked. Tomorrow I will fill the centres of the springs with heat resistant silicone which reduces any resonance from the springs.
A few smaller jobs, including exhaust wrapping, sensor fitting and cable oiling ahead of fitting the water thermostat that I finally received today.
The landing lights come with a couple of spade connectors that need to be crimped on…
and then slipped into the connector block. I’ll need to do the same thing when I come to install the LEDs into the wing.
The MAP sensor is fitted to the firewall in a suitable position making sure that the plug don’t foul one another.
The space between the water bottle and regulator seems to work well.
The front exhaust pipes covered in exhaust wrap and secured in place with stainless steel ties.
There’s several cables that need to be installed later in the build. Unlike the throttle cables these aren’t lined so require some lubrication.
Received at last! Good ol’ Parcel Force have had this since the 5th March but never left a card. It’s lucky I asked for an update on delivery from Silent Hektik otherwise I’d still be waiting. This is the 3rd time Parcel Force have completely screwed up on a delivery to me – I will never use them again!
After some exciting skiing in Val Thorens it’s back to work. Whilst I was away I planned my weeks ahead based on what’s left to do. Some small jobs to get me back into the groove.
The magnetic oil plug needs to be checked for debris. If any large pieces of metal are stuck to this it’s an indication that there is a problem with the engine.
Once checked the plug is refitted and locked to prevent it from coming loose whilst in operation.
The oil drain banjo underneath the engine also needs to be wire locked.
A job leftover from fitting the canopy locks is installing the centre canopy release mechanism.
Holes marked and drilled.
A rivnut is installed and the mechanism is secured. Once the interior panels are fitted the operating wire will be fitted.
When Chris came down he helped me install the electric aileron trim servo. Now it’s time to install the Elevator trim mechanism. Chris had already attached the clevis, pin, split pin and had cut the threaded rod which cuts some of the work I have to do.
The first thing that needs to be done is to set the trim motor to its extremes so it can be set at midpoint.
The midpoint is 8.5mm which is set by connecting to a 12v battery to move it to that position.
The servo is temporarily installed with Clecos, the other clevis is attached and adjusted so the trim tab is inline with the elevator.
The Clecos are removed and M3 screws, nylon washers and nylocs nuts are used to secure the servo.
Once correctly adjusted the pin and clevis is secured with a split pin.
Today focuses on finalising some of the work I had already started but was waiting on parts.
First up is to rivet the throttle into place.
A view of the throttle installation from the top.
Next is to replace the 5/16″ bolts that were found to be damaged.
Once tightened the nuts are marked with torque seal to indicate any movement in service.
The canopy latch striker plates are riveted into place.
And the spring return plate is riveted into place and the spring connected.
The trim motors are normally riveted into place but I’ve decided to use an M3 bolt and nyloc bolt as it will be easier to change should there be a problem.
The wiring needs to be done next but I’ll leave that for another day.
A number of jobs today including some to finalise previously started installations.
The throttle quadrant was cleco’d in position temporarily to allow the cables to be run. This needs to be riveted with 4mm x 15mm rivets which I need to purchase.
The temporary holes were 3.2mm so I’ll open them out ready for riveting tomorrow.
The throttle and choke cables need to be adjusted, tightened and cut to length.
A small piece of heat shrink is put on the end to stop it fraying in service before it is cut to size.
The drip trays are held in position by a bracket at one end and a piece of wire lock at the other. A small hole is drilled in the drip tray to facilitate.
The right hand tray is quite close to the fuel line so a small modification was made to the tray itself and a small piece of plastic tubing secured on the top of the tray to stop it rubbing on the pipe.
View of the final installation.
One of the jobs on my ‘todo’ list was to torque the brake disks so the wheel is jacked using a simple wooded jack.
The bolts are torqued…
and marked with torque seal. This will allow me to see if there is any movement in the bolts whilst in service.
Next job to do fit the canopy locks and striker plates.
Once cut to size, holes countersunk and smoothed off they can be painted.
The striker plate in place ready to be riveted into place tomorrow.
The canopy lock and release are installed and tightened.
The actuating wire is cut to size and fed through the operating arm and finally the installation is sealed with silicone sealer.
Following the build of my Bristell NG5 Kit No. 382 Registration G-MLSY
G-MLSY 